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Show full title. Karen F. Quandt x Karen F. Search for articles by this author. Additional Info. Click to decrease image size. I have kept a pretty accurate journal, as you will see. May At the Elephant and Castle on the Kent Road an officer in the army joined us. When we reached Dartford we were asked if we chose to breakfast; but we did not. After Dartford the country becomes very pleasant, and we have many pretty views of the river Thames. At Canterbury the coachman begged us to ride outside, as four ladies had come as far as Canterbury in another coach, and if we would ride outside we might all go in one coach.

We consented, and he returned us the difference of the fare. I had 16 shillings to pay for luggage. From Canterbury to Dover the country is extremely hilly.

We did not, as we expected, pass through Margate. Dover is a very dirty place. We had a very good pair of beds. Ensor, 1 set off with him for France in a Dover coach professing to pass through Margate, Ramsgate, and Deal.

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There was an old lady in the coach, going to Boughton near Canterbury. At the Elephant and Castle on the Kent road a gentleman in the army joined us. The road is not at all pretty as far as Dartford; there we come to the banks of the Thames, and it begins to be extremely pretty. We went on to Canterbury, a large town, very pretty. Here the coachman begged us to ride outside, because the whole inside of the coach was taken: we did so accordingly, and he returned us the difference of the fare. From Canterbury to Dover the country is very hilly. We did not, as I expected, pass through Margate, Ramsgate nor Deal; I suppose because there were no passengers for any of those places.

The instant I set my foot on board, I began to feel a little sick; I therefore immediately went into a birth, lay down, and shut my eyes. I thus avoided sea-sickness: though indeed I felt a little sick at stomach during the latter part of our voyage: for our passage was so rough that even Mr. Ensor was sick, which he has not been for 25 years. The rolling of the ship was so great that at one time half the deck was 3 feet under water.

We went to a very good hotel, that of Detant, au Grand Cerf, Rue Royale, Calais, where we dined, and our trunks were taken to the Custom House, but as every thing was exactly in the condition you put it, after the officers sent it back, I do not think they searched it. No one offered to search our pockets. The town has a very large open market place: The city walls are a pleasant promenade.

The room was furnished, chiefly, more in the English than in the French manner. Melle Detant spoke very good English. We accomplished the passage in three hours; it was an exceedingly rough passage; so much so that even Mr. Ensor, who has not been sea sick for 25 years, was so this time. I escaped by lying down directly in a birth and shutting my eyes.

But during the latter part of the passage, I was a little sick at stomach; the rolling of the ship being so great that the deck was in some parts three feet under water every time the vessel rolled. My sac de nuit was searched, but nothing taken. We went to the Hotel du Grand Cerf, Detant, Rue Royale, Calais, where we dined, and our trunks were taken to the Custom House, but nothing seized; I think they did no more than open the trunks, for every thing was Edition: current; Page: [ 5 ] in the same order as before.

Went out to see the town.

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It is not very large, the streets are neat, and many of them have paved foot paths. The promenade of the town is the wall which surrounds it, and which commands a distant prospect, though not a very delightful one. We had two closets opening into our room at the inn. Each contained a bed.

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The room was furnished more in the English than in the French manner. Mademoiselle Detant spoke very good English. The population of Calais is 7, inhabitants. We arrived at Paris in about 32 hours. The country near Calais is very flat and unpleasant, but towards Boulogne it becomes more hilly as it continues for the rest of the way. Boulogne consists of two towns: the Haute Ville, and the lower. A magnificent street called Rue Grande connects them. We next arrived at Montreuil, a large town on a very steep hill, which we could hardly climb on foot, the streets were so steep.

Our company was all English except one gentleman.


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  • We supped at Abbeville. It is much more than twice as long, and considerably broader, than an English stage coach: yet it is supported on two wheels only. It is divided crosswise into two apartments having no communication with each other except by a little window; each apartment contains six people much better than a common English stage coach holds four. The country which we first pass through is extremely flat and unpleasant, but it becomes more hilly, as we proceed. Boulogne is at the mouth of the little river Iane, 2 it is a trading town, the chef lieu of an arrondissement, population 13, inhabitants; it consists of two separate towns, the Haute Ville and the Basse Ville; the former is surrounded by a high wall.


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    • They are connected by a magnificent street called Rue Grande. Here as at Calais there are as many inscriptions in English as in French. This town is built on a very steep hill, which makes it extremely difficult to mount, even on foot, as we did. It is situate on the right bank of the Canche, the only river of consequence north of the Somme. The town itself is dirty, and far from presenting the pleasing appearance of Calais or Boulogne; it is however a large town though it contains only 3, inhabitants.

      On leaving Montreuil we crossed the river Canche and proceeded to Abbeville, skirting a great number of forests, in particular that of Cressy, celebrated in English and in French history. It is also one of the best peopled, being exceeded in Edition: current; Page: [ 6 ] population only by the departmens of the Nord, the Seine, and the Gironde. The Canche and the Aa are the only rivers of note which it contains, though the Lys has its rising there. The tide comes up as far as this town.

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      It has 18, inhabitants. There are two roads from Abbeville to Paris; the one by Amiens and the other by Beauvais, that which we took is the Beauvais road. We travelled all night, passing through Airaines, Poix, and Grandvilliers. We entered Paris about 6 P. Denis: the custom house officer opened the trunks on the coach top. As I slept on a temporary bed, I escaped being infested with bugs, a misfortune to which Mr. The number of inhabitants is 13, We passed then through a country very well cultivated, seeing sometimes some vineyards; we entered Paris by the barrier of St. Denis, having first passed through the village or small town of that name.

      The customhouse officer went to the coach top, but I do not know whether he searched the trunks. Ensor was subjected, of being infested with bugs. The upper rooms are appropriated to gaming, and all species of vice. Edition: current; Page: [ 7 ] We went after breakfast to M. Say, who occupies the upper part of Rue du Faubourg St. Martin, No. His family consists of himself, Mdme Say, their eldest son, M. Horace Say, who is a merchant, and goes every day to business, and one of his daughters. None of them except himself and his eldest son can speak a word of English.

      Say said it was 2 months since Mr. Bentham had written to him to say I was coming. Mdme Say told me of a young German who had come to their house from England two days before the departure of R.

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      Doane, 7 who said he was acquainted with me: I forget what she said was his name: I do not know who he can be. I walked out with her on the Boulevards: we went to the Palais and the Jardin des Thuilleries: the garden is nothing comparable to Kensington Gardens, but the palace is much finer than any in London. We returned to dinner. As Mr. Ensor had many places to go to, he hired a laquais de place, and by those means saved me the expense of a cabriolet.

      We went first to the Rue du Faubourg St. Say and his family. They were very kind to me, and begged me to stay at their house; I accepted the offer, Mr.